This tutorial has also been published on www.wetcanvas.com and Noated.net. It is also awailable in german in the magazine “How to Draw Manga” issue 9, published by Eidalon Verlag in Germany.

Introduction

A light table can be used to view slides or tracing a sketch. A light table is also good for simple layout sketching as you can put several layers of sketches on top of each other, and very easily adjust the composition as you work. Light tables are expensive, priced as high as $1000-$1500, so most people can not afford them. The least expensive light table I could find was about $400, but it lacked many of the functions you would expect from a proffessional light table.

The light box is basically the same thing as a light table, but it is a lot cheaper than a light table. The lowest priced light box I could find, 210x300mm, was approximately $200.

The cheapest solution is to build your own light table. The simplest possible way to do this is obviously to put a lamp underneath a table with a glass table top. If you don’t have a glass table you could buy a sheet of plexiglass and place a lamp underneath. however, these solutions are crude and can not be compared to a real light table., For most people a simple light table or light box is all they need. If you are serious about making your own comic for example you should invest in a light table/box, so if you make it yourself it doesn’t have to be too expensive.

But how do you make a light table then? This is what I asked myself about two years back when I first thought of making myself a light table. Of course I searched the web for tutorials and came up pretty much empty handed. None of the tutorials were what I was looking for. I decided to make my light table from scratch and while at it, provide the internet community with yet another tutorial.

How to convert your existing table into a light table.

All mesurements are in mm, millimetres, unless otherwise noted. This light table was designed according to my needs as an artist. For most hobbyist I believe it is sufficient, but some of you might want other functions, such as an adjustable tilt of the table. In that case I suggest you design your own table, or buy a proffessional light table if you can afford it. You can leave a comment at the bottom of this page if you have any questions regarding this tutorial.

This size light table will easily give room to work on a standard A3 paper with room to spare

Your basic needs

Tools:

1. 1. Hammer
2. 2. Saw
3. 3. Some screwdrivers
4. 4. A pair of tongs
5. 5. A drill

The table:

1. 1. Wooden boards for the box: 20 mm thick, and wide enough to fit the lamps and electric fittings.
2. 2. A sheet of plywood: 10-12 mm in thickness
3. 3. A glass plate: 5-8 mm thick
4. 4. Plexiglass: White, 2-4 mm thick
5. 5. Silicone seam gel
6. 6. The proper electric fittings and lamps

What it’ll cost you

1. 1. Table: Approximate value $100, IKEA EFFECTIVE 20 mm thick, 160×120 cm.
2. 2. Pine boards: $5, 20 mm thick, 70 mm wide 2×550 mm long and 2×360 mm.
3. 3. Plywood: 10 mm thick, 550×400 mm. Check with your local lumber yard. You may be able to get one for next to nothing.
4. 4. Glass plate: $50, 6 mm thick, 550×400 mm, $50)
5. 5. Plexiglass: $40, plexiglass is expensive, white, 2 mm thick, 550×400 mm
6. 6. Silicone seam gel: $6
7. 7. Screws and other needed items from the hardware store: $10
8. 8. All electronic components were ordered from ELFA: $50 www.elfa.se see step 2 below for a complete list of electric components You may also find these items at a local hardware store, or in the home improvement section of WalMart

Total cost approximately: $165 Note: all prices are estimates, and may vary in the area where you live.

The cost for a light table of this size could run between $150-300. That is a fairly reasonable amount for a light table. The cost for making a light box would be about the same so making a table rather than a simple box design is more lucrative.

If you have the know how you can build the electric fittings yourself, as I did, and it will save you a lot of money. If you do not know how to set up the fittings you could buy the complete fittings, or go with a simpler solution using an existing lamp as the light source.

Note: The electrical fitting should be figured into your original plans for the light table/box, otherwise you may find that they may be too large. This could also result in a table that is not comfortable to sit at.

If you are going to use the light table for transparency slides or something equivalent, it’s wise to get a lamp that gives a light with a color temperature of around 5000-6000 K, a white light.) I chose a flourescent tube light with a color temperature at 2700 K. This is sufficient for tracing sketches and simple layout work which met my needs.

Blueprints

These are the original blueprints I made for my own light table and translated into English. The proportions may be a bit off here and there.

This diagram shows the 4x15W lights, the igniters, the electromagnetic ballasts (for 30W each), as well as the fuse and the switch.

Some of you might be able to build it simply by looking at the blueprints above. I have included step by step instructions that should be fairly simple to follow for those that need the information. These general instructions will make it possible to implement your own design ideas.

Step 0: The planning

I can not stress this enough: Make sure you have every detail and every step of the process well thought out before you start, or you might end up with something that doesn’t work in regards to the design and functionality intended for the object. This piece of advice goes for any project wich involves building or creating something. If you choose to go exactly by my tutorial you should be pretty much in the clear. If you choose to do something different you should double check all measurements, and make sure you have enough marigin for the lamps and electric fittings. The clearance under the table should allow enough room for your legs to comfortably fit underneath with the box in place.

Step 1: The “box”

Start by drilling holes in the boards where needed as shown in the blueprints for the light table and the light box blueprints (below). Remember to drill holes for the screws as well. You may want to drill large holes in the bottom of the box for vetilation aswell. (I drilled about a dozen inch-wide holes) You may need to carve out some of the holes to fit the switch and the fuse container. This is a bit tricky, and it is easier if you have the proper tools of course. It can be done with just a knife and a lot of patience as well. If you don’t want to go through the fuss of carving out rectangular holes in the boards you could buy a different kind of switch and fuse that require a circular hole. Remember that the thickness of the board is a factor which you must take into consideration when buying a switch that is to be fitted into a board. With this in mind it might be good idea to choose a board that is a bit thinner, but this will make the box less sturdy. An even simpler solution is to put the switch directly on the main power cord. You could build the fuse container into the box. If you do decide to be aware that you can not change the fuse when needed unless you are prepared to dissasemble the box every time, or build in some kind of door feature. This is an acceptable design solution, because I don’t think you should have to change fuses very often. The light box my father built nearly 20 years ago has never had the fuses changed. You should not have to worry about changing the lights either if you go with flourescent lights.

When building the rectangular box remember that the inside measurements must be big enough to fit the electric fittings and lamps. The outside measurements should be aproximately the same as the glass or plexiglass. If it is 1-2 mm larger it will not affect the function of the box. Make sure you get the corners 90, and that the box does not “tilt” when placed on a flat surface.

Once you have the sides of the box ready you can cut a rectangular bottom plate of plywood. Plywood is expensive, but is one of the best materials to use. You can use any material you would like to, but remember that the bottom has to be quite thick, at least 8-10 mm, so the screws that fasten the electrical fittings don’t stick out underneath. That might be bad for your knees when sitting by your light table. Drilling a few holes in the bottom plate will allow air circulation.

If you want to paint the box this stage of the project is a good time to do so. Remember that the inside of the box might get quite hot due to the lamp(s) inside so use a paint that can handle extreme temperatures.

Step 2: Setting up the electrical fittings

This is somewhat difficult to show, but if you know about electrical wiring all you need are the blueprints of the electrical fittings I have provided. If you choose a different lampsize/type you’ll have to figure it out yourself how to set it up.

List of the electric components I used for my light table

ELFA article numbers are in parenthesis. You can go to www.elfa.se for more details and pictures of the actual components.

1. 1. (4) Fluorescent tube lights Osram L15W/41-827 (33-533-31)
2. 2. (2) Electromagnetic ballasts Philips BTA 30L31 (33-812-66)
3. 3. (4) Igniters Osram ST151 (33-541-31)
4. 4. (4) Igniter stands (33-810-84)
5. 5. (8) Tube light stands for G13 sockets (33-810-50)
6. 6. (1) FKUX power cord (55-288-15)
7. 7. (1) DRKX power cord 2-leader, round PVC (55-602-97)
8. 8. (1) Power socket 10A 230V (43-202-97)
9. 9. (1) Fuse container (33-170-05)
10. 10. (1) Switch (35-029-60)
11. 11. Fuses 1A 5×20 mm (10-pack) (33-105-54)

If you can find a switch and fuse container that uses screws to fasten the power cords then by all means go with that instead. The types listed above need to be soldered, and if you have no experience soldering this can be a bit tricky.

You’ll find all the apropriate screws needed to fasten the electric fittings onto the box at your local hardware store.

Note: This system works with the Swedish electric standard (230V 50Hz AC). If you live in a country with a different standard this system might not function as it should. The power socket listed is a standard which fit the power outlets in Sweden, but might not fit the power outlets in your country.

Warning: If you don’t know exactly what you are doing you should not set the electric fittings yourself. You could end up blowing your components, or even killing yourself. Electricity is something that should be respected due to the dangers of working with it without the required knowledge. Be aware of the rules and regulations for electric devices present in your country before starting any project that requires electrical fittings.

This is a photo of how my design looked right before putting the glass on.

Step 3: Cutting a hole into your table

The first thing you need to remember is that this should be done after you have the box finished. You use the box as a template, and then add 1-2 mm so you get a loose fit for your box in the hole. The box should drop through the hole smoothly. Also try out the glass or the plexiglass. They should leave a gap of about 2-3 mm when held over the hole (Don’t drop the glass through the hole! You will want to have someone helping you during this test for fit, or else you will risk breaking the glass.

Secondly: you must know where to place the hole. This is a matter of taste and how you will be using the light table. Think about how you sit when you draw or work. Place the hole in a position so that when you use the light table you do not have to change your position. This is the main advantage of converting your existing working table into a light table.

Step 4: Mount the box on the table

This is important if you follow my basic design. Turn the table upside down on the floor. Next place both the glass and plexiglass into the hole the way they are supposed to be once the light table is ready. The plexiglass should now be on top. Now place the box so that the bottom is facing upwards. Remember to place the box so that the front side is facing in the right direction on the table. Now all you have to do is fasten the box with angle irons and screws.

In this photograph you can see the angle irons that hold the box in place. You can also see the switch and the screw lid that is used to change the fuses.

Next, turn the table around gently without harming the glass. Leave the glass and plexiglass on the floor turning only the table around. Pick up the glass plates from the floor and place them, this time plexiglass underneath, in the hole. If you did this correctly they should now be perfectly alligned and in level with the rest of the table top. If not you can put little pieces of felt or paper in the corners and try to balance the glass making sure it doesn’t tilt.

The procedure for applying the seam of silicone is most likely explained on the tube. Read and follow the directions, and do not fuss with it. Once the silicone hardens it is difficult to remove.

Congratulations. Your brand new light table is finished. Plug it in…

…and start drawing!

Alternative design: The light box

With small alterations to the light table design you could build the simple yet functional light box instead. The light box takes up less space and is a lot easier to build as well.

Blueprints for the alternative design: The light box

Note: The measurements given for the glass plates are the maximum allowed size. I recommend making them smaller, approximately 535x385mm in size, and using the silicone to fill the gap as seen in the side view. This way you have a marigin for error of about 2 mm on every side. The alternative to using silicone is shown below. If the strip-board is bigger you should adjust the size of the plates accordingly, but do not use a strip-board that is too thick or your glass plates won’t have much support from the box. The alternative design, in my opinion, is not as good as the one using silicone. You can not use paper that is larger than the light box, and if there is slightest gap you are guaranteed to get dirt in the light box(especially if you use an eraser).

Be aware that this design requires a higher degree of accuracy when it comes to getting the corners in a 90 angle.

Read Steps 0 to 2 above for details on how to set up the light box.